Well, we made it back in one piece and with all our crap. Thursday we got up went to the airport got checked in and onto the plane. Then we sat there for 2 and 1/2 hours while they worked on one of the engines and it's cowling. It was AWESOME! /sarcasm. Needless to say, we missed our connecting flight to SF at 5PM. A HUGE thank you to Stacy for booking Angela and me on the 9:40 flight out of D.C. to SF. We did not get home until after 1AM (fraking united), but that's better than having to stay in a hotel again. I'd also like to say thanks to Dion for picking us up at the airport so late. Thanks Dion.
So, now it's time to do laundry and re-adjust to the time and catch up on LOST! And get ready for my friend's wedding tomorrow.
I had a really great trip. You've (probably) read the blog and seen that we've had a lot of fun (with a little stress here and there) the last few weeks. I hope you enjoyed reading as much as we enjoyed blogging our travels.
Friday, April 20, 2007
Thursday, April 19, 2007
Goodbye paris...sniff, sniff...
Yes, that's the sound of me holding back my tears as we get ready to leave for home (well, not really but it sounds more poetic...). Yesterday was a great day with Alex' "tour of good sweets". The hot chocolate at Angelina's was PHENOMENAL! It was rich, hot and chocolatey and the best I've ever had. I don't care that folks think it's too touristy, cuz it was yummy. I also am now addicted to the maccarons Alex introduced us to. They look like little burgers to me, but are really delicious little crunchy cookies with jams or chocolate filling.
We're going to leave soon I've got to wrap it up. It has been a super super trip and I'm so glad James and I did it. I can't believe it's over, even though it feels like we've been gone a long time. It's honestly gonna be tough getting back to the "real world". Thanks to James for taking this adventure with me...I wouldn't have been able to do it all without a traveling buddy. And thanks to Alex for letting us stay with him for a week+ and for driving us all over northern France on our MT. St-Michel adventure. It's great to have such good folks in my life.
Goodbye Europe...we've had a great time!
We're going to leave soon I've got to wrap it up. It has been a super super trip and I'm so glad James and I did it. I can't believe it's over, even though it feels like we've been gone a long time. It's honestly gonna be tough getting back to the "real world". Thanks to James for taking this adventure with me...I wouldn't have been able to do it all without a traveling buddy. And thanks to Alex for letting us stay with him for a week+ and for driving us all over northern France on our MT. St-Michel adventure. It's great to have such good folks in my life.
Goodbye Europe...we've had a great time!
Wednesday, April 18, 2007
The Last Day...
Paris has been great. I very much need to come back some day (preferably not another 13 yrs from now) and explore it more. As I write this it's 9AM here and we are heading to the airport in an hour. Yesterday was really nice. I've developed and addiction to butter croissants. My mission, should I choose to accept it (and I will) upon returning to SF is to find butter croissants as good as the ones from the little bakery near Alex's apartment. So good you don't even need to put anything on it. That croissant with a cup of coffee.... Heaven!
Around 12 yesterday we left for the sugar tour of Paris. We picked up some sandwiches and headed to the Tuileries Garden to eat them. Then it was to Angelina's on the Rue de Rivoli. Now, to recap for you, I have had 3 different people (one a local) tell me their hot chocolate is amazing. And OH MY GOD it was good. Hot and rich and creamy and thick and just wow. You take a sip and it warms you as it travels down your throat coating everything in chocolaty deliciousness. It's also incredibly heavy in your stomach. Alex and I could only manage one cup each. Angela went for a second half-cup. She's crazy. However, if you are ever here you have to check this place out. Rather touristy, but very worth the cup o' heaven.
We then went to get some macaron. I'll leave Angela to describe them. We went to two different places to get them (Alex is a sweets expert) and they are also very good. Some reading this are probably shocked at the amount of sweets I've been eating. Me too. I don't generally eat a lot of sugar, but I'm on vacation so it's ok, right?! After gathering macarons we made an abortive attempt to get a t-shirt for Angela. The store Alex took us to was gone. Closed up forever. He was sad. Angela was sad. I just needed to take a leak.
Bateaux Mouches: Angela was nearly as obsessed with a boat ride on the Seine as she was with Mt S. Michel. However, I thought she was saying Baton Rouge with a French accent. It was not until we got to the place yesterday that I realized what she was saying. Oops! But, it was fun and pretty and relaxing to ride up and down the river. A nice perspective on the city. There will (as always) (eventually) be pictures. We finished up the evening with dinner at a local place Alex wanted to try and it was yummy. A small cut of beef with mashed potatoes and a nice glass of red wine. The perfect last meal in Paris (for me the meat eater, Angela and Alex had fish and rice and risotto).
And that is that for my last day in Europe. It's been a really great trip and worth every penny and all the time (and occasional frustration [I hate the RER]). I'd like to say thank you to Angela for booking everything and being a sport and walking so much with (since I enjoy walking so much), I'd also like to thank Alex for letting us crash at his place, showing us around Paris, and driving us up north to Brittany and Normandy. Now it's time to complete my packing and prepare for the long trip home.
Around 12 yesterday we left for the sugar tour of Paris. We picked up some sandwiches and headed to the Tuileries Garden to eat them. Then it was to Angelina's on the Rue de Rivoli. Now, to recap for you, I have had 3 different people (one a local) tell me their hot chocolate is amazing. And OH MY GOD it was good. Hot and rich and creamy and thick and just wow. You take a sip and it warms you as it travels down your throat coating everything in chocolaty deliciousness. It's also incredibly heavy in your stomach. Alex and I could only manage one cup each. Angela went for a second half-cup. She's crazy. However, if you are ever here you have to check this place out. Rather touristy, but very worth the cup o' heaven.
We then went to get some macaron. I'll leave Angela to describe them. We went to two different places to get them (Alex is a sweets expert) and they are also very good. Some reading this are probably shocked at the amount of sweets I've been eating. Me too. I don't generally eat a lot of sugar, but I'm on vacation so it's ok, right?! After gathering macarons we made an abortive attempt to get a t-shirt for Angela. The store Alex took us to was gone. Closed up forever. He was sad. Angela was sad. I just needed to take a leak.
Bateaux Mouches: Angela was nearly as obsessed with a boat ride on the Seine as she was with Mt S. Michel. However, I thought she was saying Baton Rouge with a French accent. It was not until we got to the place yesterday that I realized what she was saying. Oops! But, it was fun and pretty and relaxing to ride up and down the river. A nice perspective on the city. There will (as always) (eventually) be pictures. We finished up the evening with dinner at a local place Alex wanted to try and it was yummy. A small cut of beef with mashed potatoes and a nice glass of red wine. The perfect last meal in Paris (for me the meat eater, Angela and Alex had fish and rice and risotto).
And that is that for my last day in Europe. It's been a really great trip and worth every penny and all the time (and occasional frustration [I hate the RER]). I'd like to say thank you to Angela for booking everything and being a sport and walking so much with (since I enjoy walking so much), I'd also like to thank Alex for letting us crash at his place, showing us around Paris, and driving us up north to Brittany and Normandy. Now it's time to complete my packing and prepare for the long trip home.
Um...we got scammed
Yeah, so apparently the plumber guy who came here last night was not the plumber who was coming to work on Alex' bathroom. Alex told us this morning that these guys go door to door here, usually to "clean the chimney". And he took advantage of the fact that we don't speak enough French to know he wasn't the right guy, and we basically led him to the bathroom since we knew someone was coming (he came this morning...).
Alex was of course pretty mad this morning, (at the plumber, not us) as was I because I normally consider myself savvy enough not to get suckered. I do feel that James and I would not have let him in if we didn't already know a plumber was coming this week. Alex called the guy today and read him the riot act, and threatened to report him to the fraud department. I guess the guy half-heartedly argued that we told him in French the drain was clogged, to which Alex basically told him we can barely say hello and thank you so how did we know how to say "clogged drain"? I did speak quite a bit to him in my bad French yesterday trying to explain that Alex was not home and what was supposed to be fixed, etc and now I think he understood me and saw an opportunity. Anyway, the guy agreed to send Alex the 80 euro back without much fight. So I feel much better about letting him in.
And the moral to this story? Don't let strangers into the house kids, especially when it's not your house and you don't speak the language...
Alex was of course pretty mad this morning, (at the plumber, not us) as was I because I normally consider myself savvy enough not to get suckered. I do feel that James and I would not have let him in if we didn't already know a plumber was coming this week. Alex called the guy today and read him the riot act, and threatened to report him to the fraud department. I guess the guy half-heartedly argued that we told him in French the drain was clogged, to which Alex basically told him we can barely say hello and thank you so how did we know how to say "clogged drain"? I did speak quite a bit to him in my bad French yesterday trying to explain that Alex was not home and what was supposed to be fixed, etc and now I think he understood me and saw an opportunity. Anyway, the guy agreed to send Alex the 80 euro back without much fight. So I feel much better about letting him in.
And the moral to this story? Don't let strangers into the house kids, especially when it's not your house and you don't speak the language...
Tuesday, April 17, 2007
668 steps
Yes, that's how many stairs we took today during our ascent up the eiffel tower...and I didn't count them, they were conveniently counted for us on the steps as we toiled our way up. OK, I toiled but it wasn't as bad as I thought and I think I was more tired making our way to the top of the St. Vitus cathedral in Prague, which was half the stairs. We did have a 5 minute break at the first level as well, after the first 328 stairs. I think those numbers will be burned in my memory forever...So maybe the 3 weeks of constant walking has gotten me in better shape. Which is amazing considering all the rich, fried and fatty chocolatey foods we've had (sorry...). And my clothes are looser, which has been a nice and surprising bonus to our trip.
So as James said, the views from the top of the tower are amazing, even through the dirty air. I've been before on my last trip but I'm all about getting to the top of things. Granted, Alex and I took the elevator last time. I might have this time, but we got in the line for tickets that was SIGNIFICANTLY shorter, not realizing it was for the "stairs only" until we got close. I'm not going to lie, I probably wouldn't have even attempted it 3 weeks ago, so I'm proud of myself for doing it today without getting too terribly tired. I surprised myself!
I also didn't realize how scared of heights James was until I noticed on a lower level that he wasn't really going near the rails. I absolutely LOVE being up high so it was pretty cool for me. I did have a "moment" when we were in the elevator going to the tip top, when you feel like you're floating through the air and not supported since you can see straight out all around, and my ears started to pop. And yes, I did halfheartedly try to stick my head through the protective wiring at the topmost level. I wanted to see all the way down to the ground and I probably could have made it, but the underlying tone of James' voice when he said "please stop that now because I will not be able to help you if you get stuck" made me stop. And how embarrassing would that have been if I got my head stuck and couldn't get it back out?
The Rodin museum was interesting for me. I wasn't so into going as James since I'm not as familiar with his work. Like most folks, I knew "the thinker" and maybe not much else. It's a pretty garden and house, and they had a lot of his sculptures there so I was pretty pleased with the day.
Since we went to the top of the Eiffel Tower, I was feeling pretty crappy most of the day...headache, sore throat and runny nose. I was afraid I was getting sick. Now that we've been home, I'm starting to think it was just all the smog that was getting to me. That and the cottony pollen nastiness that is blowing around everywhere here the last couple days. I'm starting to miss the san francisco winds that blow all that bad air out of the city. We're pretty spoiled with the clean air. There's been a blanket of smog here since we came back from our trip to northern france. Alex told us last night it was basically a "spare the air day" and that it was recommended that people not "exert" themselves outside. We of course found out about it after spending 7-8 hours walking around in it. Probably not the healthiest...
Oh, as James mentioned, a plumber/handiman came by this evening to fix Alex' drain. Alex had mentioned someone was coming, just not that we would have to let him in or explain the problem. As James said, his French is nonexistent and mine is tres crappy. It was basically a comedy of errors, and after telling the man several times we were not the tenants and "just visitors" he still kept asking me quesstions in French I didn't get and I kept giving him blank looks or answering in Spanish hoping it was close enough. Bottom line, I ended up paying him 80 euro to basically snake the drain, which seems a bit rich to me. I didn't know enough to argue or complain, and he didn't look like he was leaving without being paid. Good thing I know where Alex lives and I of course trust him to pay me back! Oh, and James says he was a lot bigger than he is too and he wasn't gonna fight him for it...
Tomorrow is our last full day before heading back home. I'm DREADING the packing, and I'm sad to see our trek through Europe come to an end. We'll have to make the most of our last day! Be prepared James...be prepared...
So as James said, the views from the top of the tower are amazing, even through the dirty air. I've been before on my last trip but I'm all about getting to the top of things. Granted, Alex and I took the elevator last time. I might have this time, but we got in the line for tickets that was SIGNIFICANTLY shorter, not realizing it was for the "stairs only" until we got close. I'm not going to lie, I probably wouldn't have even attempted it 3 weeks ago, so I'm proud of myself for doing it today without getting too terribly tired. I surprised myself!
I also didn't realize how scared of heights James was until I noticed on a lower level that he wasn't really going near the rails. I absolutely LOVE being up high so it was pretty cool for me. I did have a "moment" when we were in the elevator going to the tip top, when you feel like you're floating through the air and not supported since you can see straight out all around, and my ears started to pop. And yes, I did halfheartedly try to stick my head through the protective wiring at the topmost level. I wanted to see all the way down to the ground and I probably could have made it, but the underlying tone of James' voice when he said "please stop that now because I will not be able to help you if you get stuck" made me stop. And how embarrassing would that have been if I got my head stuck and couldn't get it back out?
The Rodin museum was interesting for me. I wasn't so into going as James since I'm not as familiar with his work. Like most folks, I knew "the thinker" and maybe not much else. It's a pretty garden and house, and they had a lot of his sculptures there so I was pretty pleased with the day.
Since we went to the top of the Eiffel Tower, I was feeling pretty crappy most of the day...headache, sore throat and runny nose. I was afraid I was getting sick. Now that we've been home, I'm starting to think it was just all the smog that was getting to me. That and the cottony pollen nastiness that is blowing around everywhere here the last couple days. I'm starting to miss the san francisco winds that blow all that bad air out of the city. We're pretty spoiled with the clean air. There's been a blanket of smog here since we came back from our trip to northern france. Alex told us last night it was basically a "spare the air day" and that it was recommended that people not "exert" themselves outside. We of course found out about it after spending 7-8 hours walking around in it. Probably not the healthiest...
Oh, as James mentioned, a plumber/handiman came by this evening to fix Alex' drain. Alex had mentioned someone was coming, just not that we would have to let him in or explain the problem. As James said, his French is nonexistent and mine is tres crappy. It was basically a comedy of errors, and after telling the man several times we were not the tenants and "just visitors" he still kept asking me quesstions in French I didn't get and I kept giving him blank looks or answering in Spanish hoping it was close enough. Bottom line, I ended up paying him 80 euro to basically snake the drain, which seems a bit rich to me. I didn't know enough to argue or complain, and he didn't look like he was leaving without being paid. Good thing I know where Alex lives and I of course trust him to pay me back! Oh, and James says he was a lot bigger than he is too and he wasn't gonna fight him for it...
Tomorrow is our last full day before heading back home. I'm DREADING the packing, and I'm sad to see our trek through Europe come to an end. We'll have to make the most of our last day! Be prepared James...be prepared...
986ft is really freaking high....
So, we went to the Eiffel Tower today. It was very nice and the views (despite the haze) were amazing. We took the stairs to the first two levels (I'll let Angela tell you how many steps it was) then took the elevator to the top (you have to, it's not an option we were not being lazy). Now, I've had a mild fear of heights for a while now. Usually it's not an issue. As long as I feel "safe" I can go as high as I like. The Arc? No problem. St Vitus in Prague? No problem. The top of the Eiffel Tower. Problem. Not lose my cool and freak out problem, but I was VERY uncomfortable. I was nice about it, but when Angela started trying to stick her head through the grate at the top my response was "Stop that now!" So, um, Mom. Thanks for passing that on. Much appreciated. Stacy, I feel your pain.
If you ever get the chance to go to the top (fear of heights or no) then take it. The view is magnificent. I've got a couple of photos that will eventually be posted. They are not so great (haze is horrible), but they give you an idea of what the view is like. It is gorgeous. Oh, and bring a jacket. Even if it's a warm day. It's breezy!
From there we wandered up the Champs de Mars (I think that's what it's called) towards the Rodin Museum. One panini and a kebab (for me) later we went to the museum to check out some sculpture. I had hoped to see a specific piece called The Fallen Caryatid Carrying her Stone (yes this is a Heinlein reference). However, I found somewhere online on Monday that said it was in fact in England. I was bummed. We get to the museum and the little map says it's there. Woot! Then I see it. It's inside a tent setup for some hoitytoity thing and you can't get anywhere near it. This sucked. Thankfully, he also made The Crouching Woman which I really enjoyed seeing. Actually, everything was interesting so I guess I can't complain. Well, yes I can. See, several pieces were not on display at all as they closed half the garden. So yeah. Poor me, I got to see some amazing art for about $5.50 on a warm sunny day in Paris. I'll quit the bitching now...
Two Maggots! My friend Jeffrey recommended we check out a cafe called Duex Magot. It does not mean two maggots, but I was convinced it was. Anyway, we sat outside and had a cappuccino and sweet snack. It was a great way to rest a bit and the little treat I had (a small raspberry "pie") was delicious. Yum! Tomorrow Alex is taking us to Angelina on Rivoli. For those that don't already know, this place has been recommended to me by two different people and our friend here in Paris LOVES this place (that makes 3 independent recommendations). He says it's the best hot chocolate in all of Paris.
After coffee and yummies, it was time to head to a photo store so Angela could get film. Now, Angela shoots in black and white. However, getting black and white film is not easy. The little tourist stores do not sell it, or if they do, it's the stuff that is developed in the same chemicals used for color. I used it once. Once. Let's just say it's not so great (this is a family friendly blog after all). While walking toward this store we could not find a single camera shop. And trust me, we have walked over a LOT of Paris this week. It seems to me that ALL camera and film stores in Paris are on the same street. Seriously. We got to Bd Beaumarchais and found the place right away. Angela was tired and took the Metro back. I decided I wanted to walk and kept going up the street. I saw no less than 10 camera/film stores (real ones like Calumet, not like on Market St in SF where they sell cameras and CD players). I guess they all like to be in the same place!
Oh and the plumber came to Alex's apartment to work on the shower drain just after we both got back. I don't speak French and he did not speak English. I made Angela talk to him. I'll let her tell that story
If you ever get the chance to go to the top (fear of heights or no) then take it. The view is magnificent. I've got a couple of photos that will eventually be posted. They are not so great (haze is horrible), but they give you an idea of what the view is like. It is gorgeous. Oh, and bring a jacket. Even if it's a warm day. It's breezy!
From there we wandered up the Champs de Mars (I think that's what it's called) towards the Rodin Museum. One panini and a kebab (for me) later we went to the museum to check out some sculpture. I had hoped to see a specific piece called The Fallen Caryatid Carrying her Stone (yes this is a Heinlein reference). However, I found somewhere online on Monday that said it was in fact in England. I was bummed. We get to the museum and the little map says it's there. Woot! Then I see it. It's inside a tent setup for some hoitytoity thing and you can't get anywhere near it. This sucked. Thankfully, he also made The Crouching Woman which I really enjoyed seeing. Actually, everything was interesting so I guess I can't complain. Well, yes I can. See, several pieces were not on display at all as they closed half the garden. So yeah. Poor me, I got to see some amazing art for about $5.50 on a warm sunny day in Paris. I'll quit the bitching now...
Two Maggots! My friend Jeffrey recommended we check out a cafe called Duex Magot. It does not mean two maggots, but I was convinced it was. Anyway, we sat outside and had a cappuccino and sweet snack. It was a great way to rest a bit and the little treat I had (a small raspberry "pie") was delicious. Yum! Tomorrow Alex is taking us to Angelina on Rivoli. For those that don't already know, this place has been recommended to me by two different people and our friend here in Paris LOVES this place (that makes 3 independent recommendations). He says it's the best hot chocolate in all of Paris.
After coffee and yummies, it was time to head to a photo store so Angela could get film. Now, Angela shoots in black and white. However, getting black and white film is not easy. The little tourist stores do not sell it, or if they do, it's the stuff that is developed in the same chemicals used for color. I used it once. Once. Let's just say it's not so great (this is a family friendly blog after all). While walking toward this store we could not find a single camera shop. And trust me, we have walked over a LOT of Paris this week. It seems to me that ALL camera and film stores in Paris are on the same street. Seriously. We got to Bd Beaumarchais and found the place right away. Angela was tired and took the Metro back. I decided I wanted to walk and kept going up the street. I saw no less than 10 camera/film stores (real ones like Calumet, not like on Market St in SF where they sell cameras and CD players). I guess they all like to be in the same place!
Oh and the plumber came to Alex's apartment to work on the shower drain just after we both got back. I don't speak French and he did not speak English. I made Angela talk to him. I'll let her tell that story
Monday, April 16, 2007
I'm feelin' hot, hot, hot...
Now, folks who know me know that I LOVE LOVE LOVE being warm and toasty. However, as James pointed out in his blog it was seriously hot today here. I felt like I was wilting most of the day (like a little flower...) but we were walking around in the heat a good portion of the day. I don't want to complain too emphatically, especially since we saw the big nor'easter that hit the east coast on CNN international...sorry family. I hope you're still dry.
I was dissapointed by the "little prince" store. And it's not just because I didn't realize the carousel de louvre was an underground mall and I walked up and down rue de rivoli trying to find it. It's a teeny tiny store in that mall at the louvre with stuff from little prince, babar and other children's stories. I didn't want a 200 euro figurine or a diary, pad of paper or 2007 poster. I was really looking for a new tshirt or another print and they had nothing like that. I'm not going to lie, I still bought some stuff...keychain, mug and 2 plates since I couldn't decide which one I liked best...but it wasn't what I had in mind. I'm sure I'll get over it, and I really didn't need any more little prince stuff. I was joking last night I was going to buy a toaster, so maybe it's a good thing they didn't have one...
James and I had another yummy meal at a cafe in Alex' neighborhood. Alex doesn't expect to be done with work until after 11 pm. We've been walking by daily and alex keeps telling us "that's a good restaurant." Last night I asked him what kiind of food they serve and he said "I've never eaten there....there's just a lot of people in there all the time." Anyway, we decided to try it since all those folks couldn't be wrong. James had a sausage with fries and salad, I had chicken skewers and buttery mashed potatoes and salad. Of course we had wine...and a great apple/pear crumble for dessert. Unlike everywhere else, the menu was not in English and we did not have Alex our translator so I had to do the best I could with my seriously crappy French. Our waiter was nice enough but watched us struggle with the menu and our French until the end of the meal when he asked us in perfect English "would you like some coffee?" Now I know we're in a foreign country and I don't expect anyone to speak english to me but c'mon...throw me a bone! We were at least trying and that has to count for something. Right? Otherwise, I'm probably seriously mangling their language and I should just quit.
I think we're gonna do the eiffel tower tomorrow (you have to when you're in Paris right?). Not sure what else yet. I know Alex has a "day of chocolate and maccarons" (which look like little burgers to me...sweet yummy cookie burgers...) for wednesday and bateaux mouches tour before we head back. Even though I can't believe our vacation is almost over, it feels like we've been away from home for a very long time. I'm torn how I feel about it...
I was dissapointed by the "little prince" store. And it's not just because I didn't realize the carousel de louvre was an underground mall and I walked up and down rue de rivoli trying to find it. It's a teeny tiny store in that mall at the louvre with stuff from little prince, babar and other children's stories. I didn't want a 200 euro figurine or a diary, pad of paper or 2007 poster. I was really looking for a new tshirt or another print and they had nothing like that. I'm not going to lie, I still bought some stuff...keychain, mug and 2 plates since I couldn't decide which one I liked best...but it wasn't what I had in mind. I'm sure I'll get over it, and I really didn't need any more little prince stuff. I was joking last night I was going to buy a toaster, so maybe it's a good thing they didn't have one...
James and I had another yummy meal at a cafe in Alex' neighborhood. Alex doesn't expect to be done with work until after 11 pm. We've been walking by daily and alex keeps telling us "that's a good restaurant." Last night I asked him what kiind of food they serve and he said "I've never eaten there....there's just a lot of people in there all the time." Anyway, we decided to try it since all those folks couldn't be wrong. James had a sausage with fries and salad, I had chicken skewers and buttery mashed potatoes and salad. Of course we had wine...and a great apple/pear crumble for dessert. Unlike everywhere else, the menu was not in English and we did not have Alex our translator so I had to do the best I could with my seriously crappy French. Our waiter was nice enough but watched us struggle with the menu and our French until the end of the meal when he asked us in perfect English "would you like some coffee?" Now I know we're in a foreign country and I don't expect anyone to speak english to me but c'mon...throw me a bone! We were at least trying and that has to count for something. Right? Otherwise, I'm probably seriously mangling their language and I should just quit.
I think we're gonna do the eiffel tower tomorrow (you have to when you're in Paris right?). Not sure what else yet. I know Alex has a "day of chocolate and maccarons" (which look like little burgers to me...sweet yummy cookie burgers...) for wednesday and bateaux mouches tour before we head back. Even though I can't believe our vacation is almost over, it feels like we've been away from home for a very long time. I'm torn how I feel about it...
It's freaking huge
Seriously, the Louvre is gigantic. Angela told me several times, others have also told me that it's big. They were right. It's huge. I went this morning with 3 hours thinking "I'll check out Painting and Sculpture." Yeah, right. I saw the short version of French paintings and the extra fast version of Northern European painters. That took me a little over 2 hours... So, it was quick dash to see the Mona Lisa (how can I not at least look, right?). It's a great painting, but I was a bit let down. I then dashed to see the Raft of the Medusa (a favorite of mine that I did not realize was here) then off to Venus de Milo. Some day I'll have to come back and dedicate a full day to the Louvre with more of a plan of what I want to see. Seriously folks. It's HUGE. I did enjoy the quiet time this morning. Angela's been a great co-traveler, but alone time was nice to have. Plus, Paris is rather quiet at 8AM. Well, quiet in comparison to what it's like at 2 in the afternoon at least...
So, it's hot here. I mean 80 degrees and hazy with loads of air pollution hot (I've never missed the SF daily breeze so much). From the Louvre we wandered up the Champs Élysées to the Arc de Triomphe. Up the stairs we went! It was a piece of cake after the 297 steps of St Vitus in Prague. The view could have been great, but the haze is really bad. I almost wish it had rained one day just to clear it out. We then wandered down Rivoli to the Metro stop we needed and back to Alex's. Tomorrow we'll head out to the Eiffel Tower and possibly the D'Orsay (maybe not). I'd wanted to go to the Rodin museum, but the sculpture I want to see is not there.
So like Angela posted, we drove out to Normandy and Brittany last weekend (after Mt S. Michel). It was really nice to go out there. The meal was yummy! The pate was very good. I too was more effected by Omaha beach than I expected to be. Reading a few of the plaques around the beach I got a little choked up. I did not expect it. Like Angela I noticed the kids running around playing in juxtaposition to the pontoons. It was odd, but also (for me at least) comforting. Life continues.
So, it's hot here. I mean 80 degrees and hazy with loads of air pollution hot (I've never missed the SF daily breeze so much). From the Louvre we wandered up the Champs Élysées to the Arc de Triomphe. Up the stairs we went! It was a piece of cake after the 297 steps of St Vitus in Prague. The view could have been great, but the haze is really bad. I almost wish it had rained one day just to clear it out. We then wandered down Rivoli to the Metro stop we needed and back to Alex's. Tomorrow we'll head out to the Eiffel Tower and possibly the D'Orsay (maybe not). I'd wanted to go to the Rodin museum, but the sculpture I want to see is not there.
So like Angela posted, we drove out to Normandy and Brittany last weekend (after Mt S. Michel). It was really nice to go out there. The meal was yummy! The pate was very good. I too was more effected by Omaha beach than I expected to be. Reading a few of the plaques around the beach I got a little choked up. I did not expect it. Like Angela I noticed the kids running around playing in juxtaposition to the pontoons. It was odd, but also (for me at least) comforting. Life continues.
Sunday, April 15, 2007
Back in Paris
Well, neither of us have blogged in a couple days so I guess it's about time. Maybe we've got blogger's fatigue? I'm here at Alex' apartment, drinking my morning cafe and I just realized this is the first time I've been alone in over 2 weeks. James headed out to the Louvre this morning (I've been and didn't really want to go again) and Alex had to work. I have to admit it's kind of nice to have a moment to myself, even though I've had a wonderful time traveling with James. We're gonna meet back up around noon.
So we went to Normandy and Omaha beach area on Saturday. We wandered around another sea town called St. Lo and had a great 4 course seafood meal by the water. James and I had a scallop pate and salmon in a mustard sauce...very tasty. Unfortunately, Marie had mussels and got a touch of food poisoning later in the day. She still wasn't feeling great on sunday.
Being at Omaha beach was quite powerful to me. I didn't realize the French had left many of the pontoons laying on the beach where they had fallen. The day was pretty overcast and foggy, but apparently on clear days you can see them for MILES in all directions. It may also be the longest stretch of beach I've ever seen. It just keeps going for what seems forever until you hit the water. When high tide comes in, many of the pontoons do go underwater and they're decaying away. I was also odd to see children playing around these old pontoons, knowing the history. I guess eventually, things just get back to "normal" in a sense.
Yesterday (Sunday) we had a pretty quiet day. James and I went down to Jardin du Luxembourg in the morning to see the gardens and also to see an outdoor photo expedition that's on the gates there. It was a beautiful warm day it was a great show. We then went with Alex to his parents' house for his grandmother's birthday. It was really nice for me to see all his family, except his dad unfortunately! It's difficult since they don't speak english, and my french frankly sucks. But I have always liked his parents, so it was great for me.
OK, I've got to get myself moving. I found a Little Prince store in Paris and that's my activity for the morning while James is at the Louvre! I'm gonna have to keep myself in check because I LOVE that story and I think I could go a bit crazy!
So we went to Normandy and Omaha beach area on Saturday. We wandered around another sea town called St. Lo and had a great 4 course seafood meal by the water. James and I had a scallop pate and salmon in a mustard sauce...very tasty. Unfortunately, Marie had mussels and got a touch of food poisoning later in the day. She still wasn't feeling great on sunday.
Being at Omaha beach was quite powerful to me. I didn't realize the French had left many of the pontoons laying on the beach where they had fallen. The day was pretty overcast and foggy, but apparently on clear days you can see them for MILES in all directions. It may also be the longest stretch of beach I've ever seen. It just keeps going for what seems forever until you hit the water. When high tide comes in, many of the pontoons do go underwater and they're decaying away. I was also odd to see children playing around these old pontoons, knowing the history. I guess eventually, things just get back to "normal" in a sense.
Yesterday (Sunday) we had a pretty quiet day. James and I went down to Jardin du Luxembourg in the morning to see the gardens and also to see an outdoor photo expedition that's on the gates there. It was a beautiful warm day it was a great show. We then went with Alex to his parents' house for his grandmother's birthday. It was really nice for me to see all his family, except his dad unfortunately! It's difficult since they don't speak english, and my french frankly sucks. But I have always liked his parents, so it was great for me.
OK, I've got to get myself moving. I found a Little Prince store in Paris and that's my activity for the morning while James is at the Louvre! I'm gonna have to keep myself in check because I LOVE that story and I think I could go a bit crazy!
Friday, April 13, 2007
Yeah, it was pretty, but...
So yeah. Angela has been a wee bit "obsessed" with going to Mont Saint Michel. As in "mention it at least once a day for the last 2 weeks" obsessed. I'm not saying it got a little old or anything, but it did.
However, it was gorgeous. There will be photos loaded to the smugmug account, but upload speeds here have been pretty slow so it takes a LONG time to load 100MBs of pictures. Also, while we do have free wifi at this hotel (yay) the signal is very weak so we'll see if I can get much uploaded...
Mt Saint Michel was very fairytale like. I did not expect it to be that pretty. It reminded me of the moving mountain fortress in Krull. Except it was pretty. And surrounded by water. And had no evil monster in it that you have to kill with an extra large ninja throwing star.
Angela covered the food and booze portion of our morning. Seriously, the Calvados stuff was strong. Almost like getting a punch in the nose. So not so pleasant. But the others we tried were nice. Plus it's always fun to try something that's "local".
Saint Malo (where we went today) is along the coast and has a couple of forts (on islands that are only islands at high tide) that protect it. It was very nice as well. Oh! And Angela got to help a little boy. All rather exciting for about 5 minutes. I think the kid's Mom was more scared than the boy. Dad carried him the rest of the tour. Our lunch of panini and coffee was rather yummy.
Angela keeps saying she's "tres international" with as thick an american accent as she can manage It's annoying Alex a bit. But then both of us just mangle the snot out of French and that annoys Alex too. Since he is French, this entertains us no end.
We've been traveling with Alex and his girlfriend Marie. Marie is very nice, but does not speak a lot of English. I think she believes we may be a bit "odd". She's be right, but that's what makes us charming Americans, right?
Here is a pic I took today of Marie, Alex, and Angela.
However, it was gorgeous. There will be photos loaded to the smugmug account, but upload speeds here have been pretty slow so it takes a LONG time to load 100MBs of pictures. Also, while we do have free wifi at this hotel (yay) the signal is very weak so we'll see if I can get much uploaded...
Mt Saint Michel was very fairytale like. I did not expect it to be that pretty. It reminded me of the moving mountain fortress in Krull. Except it was pretty. And surrounded by water. And had no evil monster in it that you have to kill with an extra large ninja throwing star.
Angela covered the food and booze portion of our morning. Seriously, the Calvados stuff was strong. Almost like getting a punch in the nose. So not so pleasant. But the others we tried were nice. Plus it's always fun to try something that's "local".
Saint Malo (where we went today) is along the coast and has a couple of forts (on islands that are only islands at high tide) that protect it. It was very nice as well. Oh! And Angela got to help a little boy. All rather exciting for about 5 minutes. I think the kid's Mom was more scared than the boy. Dad carried him the rest of the tour. Our lunch of panini and coffee was rather yummy.
Angela keeps saying she's "tres international" with as thick an american accent as she can manage It's annoying Alex a bit. But then both of us just mangle the snot out of French and that annoys Alex too. Since he is French, this entertains us no end.
We've been traveling with Alex and his girlfriend Marie. Marie is very nice, but does not speak a lot of English. I think she believes we may be a bit "odd". She's be right, but that's what makes us charming Americans, right?
Here is a pic I took today of Marie, Alex, and Angela.
...later that day...
OK, we're in our hotel in the normandy town of Bayeaux. We have free wifi (yaah!) and James computer, which has a "normal" American keyboard. I was having a hard time with the different keyboard, as the typos attest.
This morning, before we left the mt. st-michel area we went to a couple stores to buy some regional goodies. We all bought some butter cookies and jams. We also went to a stand that sells all different kinds of hard ciders and alcohols. We tried a few (at 10:00 am mind you). There was one particular type of alcohol called calvados. It was 42% alcohol and I think it started to burn just by smelling it. Needless to say, we all found it quite strong with just a teeny sip and none of us bought it. I think my throat is still burning. They did have some nice ciders and I bought a bottle to bring home. I think I got a bit tipsy just tasting 3 or 4 different types. I can't imagine people actually drinking that calvados on a regular basis.
We just had a meal of crepes (typical to normandy) and of course more cider. They were quite good and Alex and Marie had theirs with flambed calvados. Always fun to watch. On to Omaha beach and Alex' parents' home here in normandy tomorrow. Hopefully we'll have better weather...
I have to say, I've been looking forward to going to mt. st-michel for 10 years now. I'm of course happy I went and got to see it, but now I'm a bit let down. I need a new place to obsess about visiting. Maybe someone will give me some suggestions?
This morning, before we left the mt. st-michel area we went to a couple stores to buy some regional goodies. We all bought some butter cookies and jams. We also went to a stand that sells all different kinds of hard ciders and alcohols. We tried a few (at 10:00 am mind you). There was one particular type of alcohol called calvados. It was 42% alcohol and I think it started to burn just by smelling it. Needless to say, we all found it quite strong with just a teeny sip and none of us bought it. I think my throat is still burning. They did have some nice ciders and I bought a bottle to bring home. I think I got a bit tipsy just tasting 3 or 4 different types. I can't imagine people actually drinking that calvados on a regular basis.
We just had a meal of crepes (typical to normandy) and of course more cider. They were quite good and Alex and Marie had theirs with flambed calvados. Always fun to watch. On to Omaha beach and Alex' parents' home here in normandy tomorrow. Hopefully we'll have better weather...
I have to say, I've been looking forward to going to mt. st-michel for 10 years now. I'm of course happy I went and got to see it, but now I'm a bit let down. I need a new place to obsess about visiting. Maybe someone will give me some suggestions?
Mt Saint-Michel, finally...
Well, this will probably be short because we;re in an internet cafe (alex needed to get on for work) and the keyboard is already driving me crazy...it;s european and not what i;m used to.
We drove to the coast yesterday and went to mt saint-michel. The weather was not great...overcast but no rain. It is just as grand and beautiful as I;ve imagined. The tide was low so maybe not as pretty when it floods, every 15 days or so alex says. We toured the abbey and rectory, and had dinner at a famous restaurant in the area la mere Poullard. It was good, omelettes with salmon. Oh; and hard cider, which the region is known for.
Today, overcast again and we went to a sea town Saint Malo. We toured the fort there and had a bit of a scare when a small boy pulled a canon over onto his leg. Alex told his parents I was a PT and I checked him over. He was fine, mostly scared and I was glad I could help.
OK, more later...I can;t take this keyboard anymore!
We drove to the coast yesterday and went to mt saint-michel. The weather was not great...overcast but no rain. It is just as grand and beautiful as I;ve imagined. The tide was low so maybe not as pretty when it floods, every 15 days or so alex says. We toured the abbey and rectory, and had dinner at a famous restaurant in the area la mere Poullard. It was good, omelettes with salmon. Oh; and hard cider, which the region is known for.
Today, overcast again and we went to a sea town Saint Malo. We toured the fort there and had a bit of a scare when a small boy pulled a canon over onto his leg. Alex told his parents I was a PT and I checked him over. He was fine, mostly scared and I was glad I could help.
OK, more later...I can;t take this keyboard anymore!
Wednesday, April 11, 2007
Bon Jour Paris!
Goodbye Mosquitoes and hello super agressive @$$holes.
So, Paris is (of course) beautiful. It helps that it's sunny and 65 degrees, but still. We wandered to the Sacre Coeur (seriously and amazingly beautiful) then went off to see Notre Dame. As Angela said, some of the tourist vultures near the Sacre Coeur are incredibly aggressive. One guy followed me a bit, put his hand on my shoulder to stop me. Followed quickly with me saying "Don't touch me." and my walking away. The guy dropped a couple f-bombs my way, but we just kept walking. Taking pictures and seeing beautiful buildings was higher on the priority list. They seemed to only be that aggressive towards men. At least with the swearing. Not fun, but if that's the worst of the trip then I'm set.
We then wandered from Notre Dame up to the Louvre (we did not go in, just hung out in the courtyard). Alex and Angela both are very encouraging of me going to the Louvre... on my own. Neither wants to go. I think I will one day next week. How can I come to Paris and not, right?
In the afternoon we met back up with Alex and had a glass of wine at a small cafe not far from his house. I had a tasty glass of Cote de Rhone (sp?) then home for gnocci in a gorgenzola cheese sauce. Hmmm.
We leave early tomorrow so not too long for blogging and such.
The internet connection is slow for uploading, but I've finished photos for Rome, days 2 and 3 for Venice, and today for Paris. I'll upload them as soon as I can, but it may be next week or even after we get back before I can.
Thanks for reading (we'll be posting more) the blog and keep up the comments!
So, Paris is (of course) beautiful. It helps that it's sunny and 65 degrees, but still. We wandered to the Sacre Coeur (seriously and amazingly beautiful) then went off to see Notre Dame. As Angela said, some of the tourist vultures near the Sacre Coeur are incredibly aggressive. One guy followed me a bit, put his hand on my shoulder to stop me. Followed quickly with me saying "Don't touch me." and my walking away. The guy dropped a couple f-bombs my way, but we just kept walking. Taking pictures and seeing beautiful buildings was higher on the priority list. They seemed to only be that aggressive towards men. At least with the swearing. Not fun, but if that's the worst of the trip then I'm set.
We then wandered from Notre Dame up to the Louvre (we did not go in, just hung out in the courtyard). Alex and Angela both are very encouraging of me going to the Louvre... on my own. Neither wants to go. I think I will one day next week. How can I come to Paris and not, right?
In the afternoon we met back up with Alex and had a glass of wine at a small cafe not far from his house. I had a tasty glass of Cote de Rhone (sp?) then home for gnocci in a gorgenzola cheese sauce. Hmmm.
We leave early tomorrow so not too long for blogging and such.
The internet connection is slow for uploading, but I've finished photos for Rome, days 2 and 3 for Venice, and today for Paris. I'll upload them as soon as I can, but it may be next week or even after we get back before I can.
Thanks for reading (we'll be posting more) the blog and keep up the comments!
...I love Paris in the springtime...
Well, I've only been to Paris in the springtime so I don't really have anything else to compare it to...but I definitely love this city. It's beautiful and busy and full of life and activity and I love just roaming around. I'm starting to get my bearings back a bit. It has been 10 years since my last visit, also in April. And I'm not going to lie, I spent a lot of time doing things alone last time and since my sense of direction isn't so great, I took the subway A LOT. Now a subway map I can read...
Today James and I went to the Sacre Coeur, my favorite cathedral in Paris. I don't know why, and it's probably partly due to the fact that it was the first thing I saw as I drove into Paris my first visit and the first thing I actually visited. We climbed up the hill to montmarte and of course took pictures of the cathedral. James was accosted by some guys selling braided bracelets. Seriously had one guy put his hand on his shoulder, but James got his off as any true city dweller would. Apparently, people in Paris think I'm Japanese. Two guys appoached me today, one with a "konechiwa", and this is what happened to me in montmarte 10 years ago as well. I don't know what it is, but at least people are fairly friendly about it. We also went to see Notre Dame, not as pretty archetichurally as the sacre coeur and walked around the chatelet area of the city.
We're still doing laundry (alex has a small machine and we have LOADS of dirty clothes) and going to northern france tomorrow morning to see Mont St. Michel (I can't wait!). It's the one thing I really wanted to see and didn't my last trip. Then off to normandy and omaha beach. I don't know if we'll be "connected" so this may be my last post until we get back to Paris...
Today James and I went to the Sacre Coeur, my favorite cathedral in Paris. I don't know why, and it's probably partly due to the fact that it was the first thing I saw as I drove into Paris my first visit and the first thing I actually visited. We climbed up the hill to montmarte and of course took pictures of the cathedral. James was accosted by some guys selling braided bracelets. Seriously had one guy put his hand on his shoulder, but James got his off as any true city dweller would. Apparently, people in Paris think I'm Japanese. Two guys appoached me today, one with a "konechiwa", and this is what happened to me in montmarte 10 years ago as well. I don't know what it is, but at least people are fairly friendly about it. We also went to see Notre Dame, not as pretty archetichurally as the sacre coeur and walked around the chatelet area of the city.
We're still doing laundry (alex has a small machine and we have LOADS of dirty clothes) and going to northern france tomorrow morning to see Mont St. Michel (I can't wait!). It's the one thing I really wanted to see and didn't my last trip. Then off to normandy and omaha beach. I don't know if we'll be "connected" so this may be my last post until we get back to Paris...
Tuesday, April 10, 2007
The Great Mosquito Massecree
So, yeah. I killed at least 8 mosquitoes. However, they (and this is not a joke) must have bitten me on arms and head at least 12 times.
Oh, I got a shave and a haircut (two bits!) in Venice. Well, the guy used the clippers one would use to shave a head to shave my face then my head. Neither was done as well as I have done on my own, but it felt MUCH better once the hair was gone. Just don't look to closely as it's obvious some hairs are longer than others.
We got back to Paris with nary a problem and it was great to see Alex at the airport. As much because I've not seen him in years as we then avoided our original arrival in Paris (part deux). Oh, and he schlept Angela's bag up the 7 flights of stairs....
So, right now we are washing clothes and will probably check out the Sacre Cur tomorrow. It looks like we'll be heading to Mont San Michel and Normandy for a 3 day trip Thurs-Saturday this week.
Au revoir (since we are now in France it seems appropriate).
Oh, I got a shave and a haircut (two bits!) in Venice. Well, the guy used the clippers one would use to shave a head to shave my face then my head. Neither was done as well as I have done on my own, but it felt MUCH better once the hair was gone. Just don't look to closely as it's obvious some hairs are longer than others.
We got back to Paris with nary a problem and it was great to see Alex at the airport. As much because I've not seen him in years as we then avoided our original arrival in Paris (part deux). Oh, and he schlept Angela's bag up the 7 flights of stairs....
So, right now we are washing clothes and will probably check out the Sacre Cur tomorrow. It looks like we'll be heading to Mont San Michel and Normandy for a 3 day trip Thurs-Saturday this week.
Au revoir (since we are now in France it seems appropriate).
Oh gelato, how have we loved thee?
James and I got up early again after a night of hiding from the mosquitos...apparently they like me more than I thought! Since our flight wasn't till the afternoon, we left our luggage at the hotel and roamed Venice one last time. I feel like we finally were getting a feel for the city (James probably more than me...) and were able to pretty much find our way without getting lost. We stopped at a cafe in a piazza for a cappucino and then made our way to cafe il doge (we hadn't tried it yet and it was in the gelato book) for one last gelato. It was yummy and although cafe nico had a better chocolatey flavor, they definitelly had a better creamier texture. I will definitely miss the gelato, and all the other yummy treats we've had in Italy. I think the calamari will be a close second!
The woman at our hotel said the bus was the easiest way to the airport and it really wasn't that bad. I've got to give James his props for carrying our big bags up and down 3 bridges and the steps....yaah James! I don't know what I'd have done without him and his muscles. We got there pretty early but hung out and read at the airport. We had to pay for our heavy luggage. Myair has a 15kg limit, all the others had 20. So we were both over the limit. Together we wree over 8.5 kg, and at 10 euro per kg that was going to add up. The woman at the counter was very nice and only charged us for 50 euros, yaah for her. Myair was pretty bare-bones but they got us here to Paris so that's all that matters.
Alex picked us up at the airport and got us back to his place in one piece. We all had dinner of pasta and now we're watching the Champions League quarterfinals Chelsea vs. Valencia. Apparently we want Chelsea to win...and they just scored in the last minutes so we're (Alex) happy.
We're gonna hang out in Paris tomorrow and probably head out to Mont St. Michel and Normandy on thursday. I can't wait! Yaah for Paris....I'm so happy to be here and to see Alex....
The woman at our hotel said the bus was the easiest way to the airport and it really wasn't that bad. I've got to give James his props for carrying our big bags up and down 3 bridges and the steps....yaah James! I don't know what I'd have done without him and his muscles. We got there pretty early but hung out and read at the airport. We had to pay for our heavy luggage. Myair has a 15kg limit, all the others had 20. So we were both over the limit. Together we wree over 8.5 kg, and at 10 euro per kg that was going to add up. The woman at the counter was very nice and only charged us for 50 euros, yaah for her. Myair was pretty bare-bones but they got us here to Paris so that's all that matters.
Alex picked us up at the airport and got us back to his place in one piece. We all had dinner of pasta and now we're watching the Champions League quarterfinals Chelsea vs. Valencia. Apparently we want Chelsea to win...and they just scored in the last minutes so we're (Alex) happy.
We're gonna hang out in Paris tomorrow and probably head out to Mont St. Michel and Normandy on thursday. I can't wait! Yaah for Paris....I'm so happy to be here and to see Alex....
Monday, April 9, 2007
Goodbye Venice
Well, we had another great day today to wind it up in Venice. It was a GORGEOUS day without a cloud in the sky. I was even in short sleeves most of the day…and that’s a rarity for me since I’m pretty much always cold.
Like James said, we took the water bus to Murano Island this morning. I really wanted to get some Venetian glass on this trip and it’s all made on Murano. Apparently back in the day, they didn’t allow the apprentices and artists off the island, for fear they’d give away trade secrets. And they were allowed to marry above their class and given titles to keep them happy. Anyway, I was not disappointed….soooo many beautiful pieces at all the shops. James and I basically learned that the shops with a few pieces lined along the walls were way way out of our price range, we could afford the shops with more stuff crammed into them. I bought a beautiful necklace and wine glass set, and a few beaded necklaces in different colors cuz I couldn’t resist. All in all, I was super happy with my purchases for the price and now I just have to get them home safely!
We thought we would try to take a gondola ride today. I know it’s touristy but hey, that’s what we are. When we found out that the base price is 100 euro (that’s about $130 US), and that’s not including a singer, accordian player, champagne, etc…we decided to nix that idea and got on the water bus down the grand canal instead. Not quite as fabulous or glamorous, but definitely more affordable. And I sang “Ol sol mio” much to James’ chagrin I think to make it feel more fancy.
I think we’ve walked across this island 4 or 5 times so I feel we’ve seen Venice. You can’t get anywhere in a straight line but it’s more about the journey. You don’t get anywhere fast here and that was ok with me. I really liked the fact that there are no cars here and you either walk or get on a boat to get where you want to be.
On to Paris tomorrow. James and I both kind of feel like our trip is ending, even though we have over a week in Paris. It will be nice to be in an apartment, and out of hotels for a while. And I’ll be glad to not have to pack again until we head home! I’m sweating the weight limit on our luggage tomorrow…I’m sure I’m WAY over the 15 kg limit so I’m holding my breath and keeping my fingers crossed!
Oh...the mosquitos don't seem to like me. Maybe I'm just too sweet for them! Sorry James....
Like James said, we took the water bus to Murano Island this morning. I really wanted to get some Venetian glass on this trip and it’s all made on Murano. Apparently back in the day, they didn’t allow the apprentices and artists off the island, for fear they’d give away trade secrets. And they were allowed to marry above their class and given titles to keep them happy. Anyway, I was not disappointed….soooo many beautiful pieces at all the shops. James and I basically learned that the shops with a few pieces lined along the walls were way way out of our price range, we could afford the shops with more stuff crammed into them. I bought a beautiful necklace and wine glass set, and a few beaded necklaces in different colors cuz I couldn’t resist. All in all, I was super happy with my purchases for the price and now I just have to get them home safely!
We thought we would try to take a gondola ride today. I know it’s touristy but hey, that’s what we are. When we found out that the base price is 100 euro (that’s about $130 US), and that’s not including a singer, accordian player, champagne, etc…we decided to nix that idea and got on the water bus down the grand canal instead. Not quite as fabulous or glamorous, but definitely more affordable. And I sang “Ol sol mio” much to James’ chagrin I think to make it feel more fancy.
I think we’ve walked across this island 4 or 5 times so I feel we’ve seen Venice. You can’t get anywhere in a straight line but it’s more about the journey. You don’t get anywhere fast here and that was ok with me. I really liked the fact that there are no cars here and you either walk or get on a boat to get where you want to be.
On to Paris tomorrow. James and I both kind of feel like our trip is ending, even though we have over a week in Paris. It will be nice to be in an apartment, and out of hotels for a while. And I’ll be glad to not have to pack again until we head home! I’m sweating the weight limit on our luggage tomorrow…I’m sure I’m WAY over the 15 kg limit so I’m holding my breath and keeping my fingers crossed!
Oh...the mosquitos don't seem to like me. Maybe I'm just too sweet for them! Sorry James....
Fraking Mosquitoes! Or how I say goodbye to Venice
You know, you go on vacation to Venice and you think of things like canals, gondolas, and … well something other than mosquitoes. I’ve killed at least 8 in our room. The only thing worse than having to chase down and kill a mosquito is chasing it down and killing it only to realize that it just splatted your own blood back on you! Little bastard. Yay for soap!
I think I’ve been bitten 9 times (I’m not joking).
Today was great! Hands down the warmest day this trip. I put on sunscreen twice (boo skin cancer). Rain was predicted, but we got up this morning and the sun was shining! So after breakfast it was off to Murano and the amazing glass they make. Seriously, I have to win the lotto so I can come back and buy the really good stuff. We each got some odds and ends (not saying as some may be gifts) that were very nice, but there were pieces that were waaaay outside our price range. I found a gorgeous “plate” that was the most amazing blue you have ever seen with large dots of yellow in it (say 4 large ones). It was 385 euros. I did not buy it, but oh my god was I tempted.
Side note. Here in Venice they have floating “barges” that you wait on for the boat to come pick you up. While waiting in one that both the 41 and 52 boat stops at, Angela asked me “Which one is this?” To which I replied, “Which one what?” Angela: “That sign says 41 and 52.” Me: “Yes it does.” We went back and forth for a bit with Angela getting more and more upset that I kept saying “I don’t know what the problem is.” Finally, this Abbot and Costello sideshow ended when I said “We are not on a boat yet.” Angela said “Oh, well that’s ok, then.”
Coming back from Murano we (accidentally and my fault) took the scenic route. We have now gone ALL THE WAY AROUND Venice by boat. At least it was a sunny and beautiful day for it. After dropping off all our stuff in the room we headed back out and took the Line 1 boat down the Grand Canal. Again, a nice ride even though we were on what amounts to a commuter bus.
Yet another nice dinner (a bit pricey for the food, but we expected that). The calamari is reaaaaallllly good here. Even the worst we’ve had so far is better than what we’ve had in SF. Tonight we sat outside along a canal, very nice with the sun going down and people watching. Then back to the room. It’s odd, even though we have over a week left in Paris, it still feels a bit like the vacation is over. It’s not, but that feeling is there.
Venice is gorgeous and fun and energetic (in a mellow way), but like they say “It’s a nice play to visit, but I wouldn’t want to live here.” So far Prague remains my favorite this trip and the place I really want to go back to and see the things I missed. And eat more fried meat and drink more local beers. I think what sticks out most for me on this part of the trip is the truly stunning Murano glass. It’s just phenomenal. I would really like to go back and get more some day. The houses on Burano were fun too. Oh, and gelato from Café Nico.
What did I learn in Venice? You can see places selling panini everywhere, except when you want one. Everything is more expensive than you thought it might be. Valentino makes great suits (I knew that, but was reminded walking around near San Marco Square). Gondola rides are a RIP OFF. I mean, I’m sure they are fun and all, but at 100 euro’s for 40 minutes you better toss in a hot Italian woman for me to make out with, Pavarotti singing, and someone on the accordion (no, we did not make it on the gondola ride).
Goodbye Venice, I hope to see you again some day.
I think I’ve been bitten 9 times (I’m not joking).
Today was great! Hands down the warmest day this trip. I put on sunscreen twice (boo skin cancer). Rain was predicted, but we got up this morning and the sun was shining! So after breakfast it was off to Murano and the amazing glass they make. Seriously, I have to win the lotto so I can come back and buy the really good stuff. We each got some odds and ends (not saying as some may be gifts) that were very nice, but there were pieces that were waaaay outside our price range. I found a gorgeous “plate” that was the most amazing blue you have ever seen with large dots of yellow in it (say 4 large ones). It was 385 euros. I did not buy it, but oh my god was I tempted.
Side note. Here in Venice they have floating “barges” that you wait on for the boat to come pick you up. While waiting in one that both the 41 and 52 boat stops at, Angela asked me “Which one is this?” To which I replied, “Which one what?” Angela: “That sign says 41 and 52.” Me: “Yes it does.” We went back and forth for a bit with Angela getting more and more upset that I kept saying “I don’t know what the problem is.” Finally, this Abbot and Costello sideshow ended when I said “We are not on a boat yet.” Angela said “Oh, well that’s ok, then.”
Coming back from Murano we (accidentally and my fault) took the scenic route. We have now gone ALL THE WAY AROUND Venice by boat. At least it was a sunny and beautiful day for it. After dropping off all our stuff in the room we headed back out and took the Line 1 boat down the Grand Canal. Again, a nice ride even though we were on what amounts to a commuter bus.
Yet another nice dinner (a bit pricey for the food, but we expected that). The calamari is reaaaaallllly good here. Even the worst we’ve had so far is better than what we’ve had in SF. Tonight we sat outside along a canal, very nice with the sun going down and people watching. Then back to the room. It’s odd, even though we have over a week left in Paris, it still feels a bit like the vacation is over. It’s not, but that feeling is there.
Venice is gorgeous and fun and energetic (in a mellow way), but like they say “It’s a nice play to visit, but I wouldn’t want to live here.” So far Prague remains my favorite this trip and the place I really want to go back to and see the things I missed. And eat more fried meat and drink more local beers. I think what sticks out most for me on this part of the trip is the truly stunning Murano glass. It’s just phenomenal. I would really like to go back and get more some day. The houses on Burano were fun too. Oh, and gelato from Café Nico.
What did I learn in Venice? You can see places selling panini everywhere, except when you want one. Everything is more expensive than you thought it might be. Valentino makes great suits (I knew that, but was reminded walking around near San Marco Square). Gondola rides are a RIP OFF. I mean, I’m sure they are fun and all, but at 100 euro’s for 40 minutes you better toss in a hot Italian woman for me to make out with, Pavarotti singing, and someone on the accordion (no, we did not make it on the gondola ride).
Goodbye Venice, I hope to see you again some day.
Sunday, April 8, 2007
Crappy socks
So, I ran out of clean socks. I purchased some cheap ones at a street vendor. I did not expect much, but I did not expect to have feet covered in what looked like Teen-Wolf fur...
Like I said earlier. Today was another great day. The weather started out crappy then got sunny and warm. I think I might have gotten a bit of a sunburn! Yes, I wore sunscreen!
Dinner was (as Angela noted) great. Thanks to the book borrowed we got a nice little place that was PACKED. We got there right at 7 and many people were already sitting. They had only one table for two right near the door. Which worried me as I thought it might suck to be bumped over and over. But I was not bumped at all. And I concur. That was great risotto and overall dinner was wonderful. Tomorrow may not be so great, but we'll find something good regardless.
Oh, pictures will be forthcoming. Just need to get some stuff worked on a bit. The hotel has wifi, but they charge 8 euros for 3 hours (ouch!) Which means, surf, stop surfing, do other stuff, come back.
And to the anonymous comment poster (I know who you are), you are right, I've gotten several whiffs of stinky here in Venice, but since it's not been warm for very long I think it's less so than later in the year.
To finish this off I'm including a picture Angela took yesterday that she's asked me to post here. It's the picture she came to Venice to take.
Like I said earlier. Today was another great day. The weather started out crappy then got sunny and warm. I think I might have gotten a bit of a sunburn! Yes, I wore sunscreen!
Dinner was (as Angela noted) great. Thanks to the book borrowed we got a nice little place that was PACKED. We got there right at 7 and many people were already sitting. They had only one table for two right near the door. Which worried me as I thought it might suck to be bumped over and over. But I was not bumped at all. And I concur. That was great risotto and overall dinner was wonderful. Tomorrow may not be so great, but we'll find something good regardless.
Oh, pictures will be forthcoming. Just need to get some stuff worked on a bit. The hotel has wifi, but they charge 8 euros for 3 hours (ouch!) Which means, surf, stop surfing, do other stuff, come back.
And to the anonymous comment poster (I know who you are), you are right, I've gotten several whiffs of stinky here in Venice, but since it's not been warm for very long I think it's less so than later in the year.
To finish this off I'm including a picture Angela took yesterday that she's asked me to post here. It's the picture she came to Venice to take.
...can I have some wine...?
James and I just got home from what was probably our best meal to date. He found a little out of the way place in our guide book called Vini da Gigio which was phenomenal. We both had insalate, and you know it's gonna be good when you're raving over how great the tomato is in your salad. We split risoto with fish/seafood (for due) which was probably the best risotto I've ever had...hand's down. It was creamy, the fish was amazing and I ate my entire plate (doesn't happen too often...). We finished off with tiramisu which was simply heaven. I truly wish we could share the meal with all of you out there in blogworld....
On to the wine...I have not had a bad glass of wine on this trip, and I've had opportunities since I've had a glass or two every day. I liked the czech wine Frankovka, but it doesn't hold a candle to the wine we've had in Italy. I don't even know what we're drinking half the time but it's dee-lishious! Even the house wines have been great. And let me just say for those of you who know what I'm talking about...it beats wine in a box ANY day!
We walked off our meal and took some more night shots. Hopefully I got a couple good shots. With 26 rolls and counting, I've got to have a couple good ones! I've had to buy more film twice, but it's all in the process and I love it.
We didn't try the gondola ride today, which they call vaporetto. Hopefully tomorrow after our trip to Murano.
On to the wine...I have not had a bad glass of wine on this trip, and I've had opportunities since I've had a glass or two every day. I liked the czech wine Frankovka, but it doesn't hold a candle to the wine we've had in Italy. I don't even know what we're drinking half the time but it's dee-lishious! Even the house wines have been great. And let me just say for those of you who know what I'm talking about...it beats wine in a box ANY day!
We walked off our meal and took some more night shots. Hopefully I got a couple good shots. With 26 rolls and counting, I've got to have a couple good ones! I've had to buy more film twice, but it's all in the process and I love it.
We didn't try the gondola ride today, which they call vaporetto. Hopefully tomorrow after our trip to Murano.
Venice...per Angela
What can I say about Venice? I LOVE LOVE LOVE it! It is such a mellow, laid back and beautiful city. It's all about cafe culture here, with folks sitting and watching the world go by with a coffee, beer or wine or gelato. There are no cars on the island at all so everyone gets around by foot or by water taxi. We've been hoofing it so far and it's funny how one minute you're jam-packed crowded with tourists and the next you're alone on a street. We've gotten lost a few times but always managed to find our way. You don't walk straight anywhere in Venice, but wind and meander your way around. Thank goodness for James and his map reading skills or I might be wandering a lot more!
James talked about the tour so no real need to go there. I'm looking forward to going back to Murano tomorrow to buy some glass. That was what I wanted to get in Venice...and then I'll figure out how to get it home.
Someone blogged about the smell in Venice. James says it smells like rotting vegetation but I don't smell it. All I smell is the sea and I actually like it alot. One thing I did NOT like were all the pigeons in San Marco Square last night. I cannot stand pigeons and James got a great first hand look at how much last night. The entire square is filled with those flying rats and I was glad to get away. Even if the square is beautiful.
Oh...one last thought on Rome. We were told on our last day (Friday) that the pope would be there to do the stations of the cross for good friday. James wasn't into it but still went for me. Even though I'm not religious anymore, that catholic girl in me couldn't not go see the pope. Although we were fairly close to him, we couldn't see him through the crowd. I can't even imagine how many thousands of people were there. The entire area around the colosseum was full of people holding crosses and lit candles. It was very moving for me and I'm glad we went.
Ok, time to head out again. We're going to try to haggle a gondola ride. They're apparently very expensive. We'll let you know how it goes!
James talked about the tour so no real need to go there. I'm looking forward to going back to Murano tomorrow to buy some glass. That was what I wanted to get in Venice...and then I'll figure out how to get it home.
Someone blogged about the smell in Venice. James says it smells like rotting vegetation but I don't smell it. All I smell is the sea and I actually like it alot. One thing I did NOT like were all the pigeons in San Marco Square last night. I cannot stand pigeons and James got a great first hand look at how much last night. The entire square is filled with those flying rats and I was glad to get away. Even if the square is beautiful.
Oh...one last thought on Rome. We were told on our last day (Friday) that the pope would be there to do the stations of the cross for good friday. James wasn't into it but still went for me. Even though I'm not religious anymore, that catholic girl in me couldn't not go see the pope. Although we were fairly close to him, we couldn't see him through the crowd. I can't even imagine how many thousands of people were there. The entire area around the colosseum was full of people holding crosses and lit candles. It was very moving for me and I'm glad we went.
Ok, time to head out again. We're going to try to haggle a gondola ride. They're apparently very expensive. We'll let you know how it goes!
Venice the 2nd day
Well, we made it here yesterday without a hitch. The train ride was loooong, but we got here without trouble. Finding the hotel was mercifully easy (it's 300meters from the train station).
We dropped off our stuff in our room and headed out! Panini! Then Gelato! Stacy loaned me a book of where to find the best gelato in Italy. We hit Cafe Nico here in Venice and wow was it great! Best I've had yet flavor wise. The place we hit in Rome had a little bit nicer texture (seemed creamier) but I loved Nico.
So, we wandered, got lost a few times, got unlost, found San Marco, found an amazingly beautiful and colorful city. Loads of pictures were taken. We'll work on uploading later.
This morning we took a boat cruise to Murano, Burano, and Torcello. We went to a glass factory in Murano (we are going back tomorrow when we are not rushed by a tour), saw a woman making lace in Burano (where they all paint their houses different and bright colors), then lastly Torcello where they have a church. Just a church. Then back to do some shopping. I'll let Angela tell her bit, but I bought 7 italian silk ties. Now, I need a place to wear them. And some shirts probably.
Right now we're back in our room (we had to switch from one on the first floor to one on the second for some reason. The light is nicer on the 2nd floor. However, our room is FILLED with mosquitoes. Seriously, I've already killed 4. Angela dubbed me Sir James the Smiter of Mosquitoes.
I'll post a bit more with photos later.
We dropped off our stuff in our room and headed out! Panini! Then Gelato! Stacy loaned me a book of where to find the best gelato in Italy. We hit Cafe Nico here in Venice and wow was it great! Best I've had yet flavor wise. The place we hit in Rome had a little bit nicer texture (seemed creamier) but I loved Nico.
So, we wandered, got lost a few times, got unlost, found San Marco, found an amazingly beautiful and colorful city. Loads of pictures were taken. We'll work on uploading later.
This morning we took a boat cruise to Murano, Burano, and Torcello. We went to a glass factory in Murano (we are going back tomorrow when we are not rushed by a tour), saw a woman making lace in Burano (where they all paint their houses different and bright colors), then lastly Torcello where they have a church. Just a church. Then back to do some shopping. I'll let Angela tell her bit, but I bought 7 italian silk ties. Now, I need a place to wear them. And some shirts probably.
Right now we're back in our room (we had to switch from one on the first floor to one on the second for some reason. The light is nicer on the 2nd floor. However, our room is FILLED with mosquitoes. Seriously, I've already killed 4. Angela dubbed me Sir James the Smiter of Mosquitoes.
I'll post a bit more with photos later.
Friday, April 6, 2007
And on the 7th day, god created gelato...
So James and I are sitting in an internet cafe, typing furiously to get our thoughts down. Our hotel in Rome does not have internet access, and we thought some of you out there (that means you dad....) might have been concerned since we'd previously posted daily.
Rome has definitely been a whirlwind. We arrived yesterday in the late afternoon and spent the rest of the day wandering around. Neither of us realized until this week that this sunday is Easter, so you can imagine what Rome is like right now....people, people and more people! Our first stop....gelato! I started with good old fashioned chocolate and it was yummy! Creamy and super chocolatey.
We decided to hit St. Peter's basilica last night and it really was breathtaking. Beautiful frescos, statues and the atlar itself is the largest I,ve every seen. Apparently, we just missed the pope when we arrived last night. A couple of Americans we met in line showed us their photo of the pope driving out of the vatican in his car. Then we wandered down to the colosseum and took night shots of the area. And of course, we had more gelato...even better than the first place! I had creme caramel and fruit bosco and it was amazing! I wish I could bring some home.
Today we hit all the major spots....colosseum again but this time we went inside. Sooo incredibly big and probably the oldest structure I,ve ever been in. The pope is giving mass there tonight so the area was closed after 1 pm...good thing we went early. We walked through the palantine, the circus maximus where they ran the chariot races, the trevi fountain (which is a lot bigger than I thought) and the spanish steps. Oh...and I tossed a coin into Trevi fountain so I,ll be back someday!
My general thoughts on Rome...it's big, bustling and always busy. Dirtier than Prague, not as pretty although older and impressive in it's own right. We're getting pretty good at crossing the street and dodging the buses and scooters! It would be nice to have more time, but I'm ready for Venice! We'll be taking the train tomorrow. Now a bit of rest and then some more roaming in Rome before we leave.
Rome has definitely been a whirlwind. We arrived yesterday in the late afternoon and spent the rest of the day wandering around. Neither of us realized until this week that this sunday is Easter, so you can imagine what Rome is like right now....people, people and more people! Our first stop....gelato! I started with good old fashioned chocolate and it was yummy! Creamy and super chocolatey.
We decided to hit St. Peter's basilica last night and it really was breathtaking. Beautiful frescos, statues and the atlar itself is the largest I,ve every seen. Apparently, we just missed the pope when we arrived last night. A couple of Americans we met in line showed us their photo of the pope driving out of the vatican in his car. Then we wandered down to the colosseum and took night shots of the area. And of course, we had more gelato...even better than the first place! I had creme caramel and fruit bosco and it was amazing! I wish I could bring some home.
Today we hit all the major spots....colosseum again but this time we went inside. Sooo incredibly big and probably the oldest structure I,ve ever been in. The pope is giving mass there tonight so the area was closed after 1 pm...good thing we went early. We walked through the palantine, the circus maximus where they ran the chariot races, the trevi fountain (which is a lot bigger than I thought) and the spanish steps. Oh...and I tossed a coin into Trevi fountain so I,ll be back someday!
My general thoughts on Rome...it's big, bustling and always busy. Dirtier than Prague, not as pretty although older and impressive in it's own right. We're getting pretty good at crossing the street and dodging the buses and scooters! It would be nice to have more time, but I'm ready for Venice! We'll be taking the train tomorrow. Now a bit of rest and then some more roaming in Rome before we leave.
Fear not dear readers...
We live!
No need to fret. We just don't have internet access in the room. In fact, the room is not as nice as the place in Prague and triple the cost. Of course, they don't have astounding amounts of deliciouso gelato every where you turn.
Sorry, no posto di fotos this time. But, we arrived yesterday, dropped off our stuff in the hotel and bolted for the Vatican. We were rained on a bit, but it gave us a beautful sky to look at too. The Vatican was, well, it's the Vatican. St Peter's was beautiful (if a bit dark so late in the day). Coming here the Easter Sunday weekend seems a less than stellar idea. Good for us we leave at 8:50AM tomorrow for VENICE!
Last night after dinner we mosied down to the coloseum. It's a 10 minute walk from our hotel. One hour and about 60 night photos later we headed back. You know what that means, don't you? Gelato! We got some before dinner too. But, the stuff we got going back was amazing! I got chocolate and banana. Angela got creme brele and fruiti bosco. The thing is, her's was (not joking) about a pint's worth of gelato. HUGE. Well, my cone was pretty big too, but I said medium before I ordered. I think that helped.
Today we had breakfast at the hotel (sadly, yogurt was not on the menu like in Prague). Then off to the ruins near the Coloseum. Oh and the Coloseum as well. A woman pushed a hard sell on us to take their tour, but we already know about the christian eating lions and that evil emperor Joachim Phoenix! We saw gladiator! Then we wandered the ruins and walked down the Circus Maximus (again, with a hard sell attempt from a sun-glasses vendor guy) towards what I call the "wedding cake" but is in fact a monument to Italy in general and the Italian Unknown soldier. Oh, we had panini for lunch on it's steps.
We mosied to the Trevi fountain (LOTS of people there) where I photographed Angela tossing money in for luck and it was time for more gelato! Off to the spanish steps. Again there were MOBS of people. We sat and watched folks walk past. Then down to the Piazza della Repubblica where we sat and had a great cappuccino. Now, we sit here typing at the crappy (somewhat scary) internet-phone place up the street from the hotel.
Tonight we have a nice meal of yummy italian food (with wine of course) and pack-up for our trip to Venice. We packed a LOT of Rome into today. I'd just like to say kudos to Angela for walking so many places with me (vs taking the metro). She knows I love to walk and walks more than she might otherwise (with the whole back/hip) thing going on.
Once we get to Venice and (as we understand it there is wifi in the lobby) have internet we'll get some photos up. Angela got one at the Vatican that was great!
-ciao
No need to fret. We just don't have internet access in the room. In fact, the room is not as nice as the place in Prague and triple the cost. Of course, they don't have astounding amounts of deliciouso gelato every where you turn.
Sorry, no posto di fotos this time. But, we arrived yesterday, dropped off our stuff in the hotel and bolted for the Vatican. We were rained on a bit, but it gave us a beautful sky to look at too. The Vatican was, well, it's the Vatican. St Peter's was beautiful (if a bit dark so late in the day). Coming here the Easter Sunday weekend seems a less than stellar idea. Good for us we leave at 8:50AM tomorrow for VENICE!
Last night after dinner we mosied down to the coloseum. It's a 10 minute walk from our hotel. One hour and about 60 night photos later we headed back. You know what that means, don't you? Gelato! We got some before dinner too. But, the stuff we got going back was amazing! I got chocolate and banana. Angela got creme brele and fruiti bosco. The thing is, her's was (not joking) about a pint's worth of gelato. HUGE. Well, my cone was pretty big too, but I said medium before I ordered. I think that helped.
Today we had breakfast at the hotel (sadly, yogurt was not on the menu like in Prague). Then off to the ruins near the Coloseum. Oh and the Coloseum as well. A woman pushed a hard sell on us to take their tour, but we already know about the christian eating lions and that evil emperor Joachim Phoenix! We saw gladiator! Then we wandered the ruins and walked down the Circus Maximus (again, with a hard sell attempt from a sun-glasses vendor guy) towards what I call the "wedding cake" but is in fact a monument to Italy in general and the Italian Unknown soldier. Oh, we had panini for lunch on it's steps.
We mosied to the Trevi fountain (LOTS of people there) where I photographed Angela tossing money in for luck and it was time for more gelato! Off to the spanish steps. Again there were MOBS of people. We sat and watched folks walk past. Then down to the Piazza della Repubblica where we sat and had a great cappuccino. Now, we sit here typing at the crappy (somewhat scary) internet-phone place up the street from the hotel.
Tonight we have a nice meal of yummy italian food (with wine of course) and pack-up for our trip to Venice. We packed a LOT of Rome into today. I'd just like to say kudos to Angela for walking so many places with me (vs taking the metro). She knows I love to walk and walks more than she might otherwise (with the whole back/hip) thing going on.
Once we get to Venice and (as we understand it there is wifi in the lobby) have internet we'll get some photos up. Angela got one at the Vatican that was great!
-ciao
Wednesday, April 4, 2007
Oh Prague, how we will miss you!
Prague has been amazing. Every day was full of yummy food, delicious beer, interesting things to learn, and an overwhelming amount of beauty to see.
The Mucha Museum (while smallish) was great and really interesting. I was excited to go to the Kafka museum, but ultimately disappointed. I'm not sure what I really expected, but it was not surrealistic art installations meant to represent the charged emotion of Kafka's work. I was a very big fan and a bit of an academic around his work while in college. So, I knew his history and his work. I don't know that I think the museum does well by him. Maybe it's just me.
A quick note on last night before the Opera. We went to a local brew pub that brews it's own (very good) Pilsner beer. Finding it was a bit of a chore (the maps we have don't show the smaller side streets so it can be very confusing at times), but we found it and got a seat (no smoking section - it's odd that this is an option being from CA). This place was HUGE. Not all in one room huge, but 7 good sized rooms connected via a warren of tunnels huge. The hostess seated us next to a young woman and two older folks. Turns out they were German (yay!) grandparents on vacation with their grand daughter. Klaus and Krystal with Dominique (the grand daughter). Dominique asked as we sat down if we were from America or England and the conversation just kept going from there. Klaus was the boss of a Singer factory in the former GDR (East Germany). He was very proud that his grand daughter was going to be an engineer (like him). The food was good, the beer was great, and I got a chance to sprechen a little deutsch. It was a load of fun.
Ok, the Opera. I've never been to the opera before. However, Stacy emailed me that they were showing Madam Butterfly at the Prague Opera house. So, I asked Angela if she were interested and she jumped on it. We got second balcony box (front row) seats for about $45.00. Holy moly. I'm not a fresh convert to opera in general, but it was a great experience. The place was beautiful (there are some fuzzy pictures), the sound was amazing, and overall I'm really glad I went. Definitely a wonderful experience.
So, to close, Prague is amazing and I wish we had more time here. I highly recommend it to anyone even slightly interested in coming here. While I am a magnet for mean Czech women, overall the people were helpful and sincerely nice. Prague itself has an enormous amount of history and culture and 5 days does not begin to scratch the surface. I will be coming back here.
The Mucha Museum (while smallish) was great and really interesting. I was excited to go to the Kafka museum, but ultimately disappointed. I'm not sure what I really expected, but it was not surrealistic art installations meant to represent the charged emotion of Kafka's work. I was a very big fan and a bit of an academic around his work while in college. So, I knew his history and his work. I don't know that I think the museum does well by him. Maybe it's just me.
A quick note on last night before the Opera. We went to a local brew pub that brews it's own (very good) Pilsner beer. Finding it was a bit of a chore (the maps we have don't show the smaller side streets so it can be very confusing at times), but we found it and got a seat (no smoking section - it's odd that this is an option being from CA). This place was HUGE. Not all in one room huge, but 7 good sized rooms connected via a warren of tunnels huge. The hostess seated us next to a young woman and two older folks. Turns out they were German (yay!) grandparents on vacation with their grand daughter. Klaus and Krystal with Dominique (the grand daughter). Dominique asked as we sat down if we were from America or England and the conversation just kept going from there. Klaus was the boss of a Singer factory in the former GDR (East Germany). He was very proud that his grand daughter was going to be an engineer (like him). The food was good, the beer was great, and I got a chance to sprechen a little deutsch. It was a load of fun.
Ok, the Opera. I've never been to the opera before. However, Stacy emailed me that they were showing Madam Butterfly at the Prague Opera house. So, I asked Angela if she were interested and she jumped on it. We got second balcony box (front row) seats for about $45.00. Holy moly. I'm not a fresh convert to opera in general, but it was a great experience. The place was beautiful (there are some fuzzy pictures), the sound was amazing, and overall I'm really glad I went. Definitely a wonderful experience.
So, to close, Prague is amazing and I wish we had more time here. I highly recommend it to anyone even slightly interested in coming here. While I am a magnet for mean Czech women, overall the people were helpful and sincerely nice. Prague itself has an enormous amount of history and culture and 5 days does not begin to scratch the surface. I will be coming back here.
Last day in Prague
What a great last day! James and I just got home from the opera, which was soooo amazing on many levels. The building itself is beautiful, and once again I'm sure the photos won't do it justice. We had great box seats, for less than $45. I can't even imagine getting seats like that for that price in San Francisco...I've never sat in them before! And the production of Madame Butterfly was wonderful. The two main leads had phenomenal voices and I was really moved. I love the opera anyway, so I was glad that James wanted to go. It was a perfect end to our time in Prague.
The rest of the day we spent doing a "museum day". It was SERIOUSLY cold this morning and cloudy so I was pretty miserable outside. Thank goodness for hot cocoa and coffee. We went to the Mucha museum and the Kafka museum. I'm not that familiar with Kafka's works, but getting to see some of Mucha's works was a highlight. Oh, and we had a snack at caffe mastiste down near the Charles river, which apparently was once a mortuary. I didn't see any dead people but the apple strudel was delicious. We climbed the west tower of the Charles bridge and were rewarded with some of the most spectacular views of the city of the week. Totally worth it!
So although I'm excited to move on to Italy (and start in on the pasta and not deep fried everything...) I'm finding myself a bit sad to be leaving Prague. It really has been even better than I expected and I could have spent a month here just wandering around and getting to know the city and the culture. I've taken 12 rolls of b&w film just here, so I'm hoping I have some good shots to work on when I get back to reality!
The rest of the day we spent doing a "museum day". It was SERIOUSLY cold this morning and cloudy so I was pretty miserable outside. Thank goodness for hot cocoa and coffee. We went to the Mucha museum and the Kafka museum. I'm not that familiar with Kafka's works, but getting to see some of Mucha's works was a highlight. Oh, and we had a snack at caffe mastiste down near the Charles river, which apparently was once a mortuary. I didn't see any dead people but the apple strudel was delicious. We climbed the west tower of the Charles bridge and were rewarded with some of the most spectacular views of the city of the week. Totally worth it!
So although I'm excited to move on to Italy (and start in on the pasta and not deep fried everything...) I'm finding myself a bit sad to be leaving Prague. It really has been even better than I expected and I could have spent a month here just wandering around and getting to know the city and the culture. I've taken 12 rolls of b&w film just here, so I'm hoping I have some good shots to work on when I get back to reality!
Tuesday, April 3, 2007
Meat...not so big for me...
I'm glad James is enjoying his week of atkins diet. I however have not been quite so drenched in the meat fat. I've had some great chicken dishes, and I love love love the potato pancakes and dumplings. I did have fried cheese today for lunch. It's on practically every menu, but I had decided I was not going to eat it. Our tour today included lunch...and the options were goulash, pork loin or fried cheese...so fate intervened. Izec told the tour guide I needed vegetarian (it's just easier) and she told me I could have the cheese. So what can I say about the cheese? It looked like a McD's fishwich and had some french fries...a heart attack on a plate. It was ok, it was fried so it couldn't be that bad. Oh, and the "vegetarian" lentil soup had big chunks of sausage in it. Obviously my version of vegetarian is different from the czech.
We took a bus tour of Karlstejn castle today, about an hour outside of Prague. It was built by Charles IV, "the most important king of Czech Republic." It was huge, and built into the stone of the hill. What I'm starting to learn that castles are big, they're freezing cold and they're kind of damp and dank. But I LOVED our tourguide. He was a younger guy, very knowledgable and took crap from anybody. When he was talking, NOBODY else was talking. And he had a look that would knock you down and a "Ssshhhhh" to follow. He was awesome. I've noticed tourists are kind of loud and pushy and he kept everyone in line.
Since James posted about the bedding, I feel I need to counter. The duvet is folded in thirds UNDER the top cover. So yes, I have commented/complained because every night I have to remake my bed so I can get into it to sleep. This makes absolutely no sense to me...I'm on vacation so I shouldn't have to make the bed! The only explanation I can get out of James is "it's just how it's done here" so until I get a better explanation, I'm going to comment on it every single night. Be prepared James, be prepared...
We've had great weather since we got here but it started to rain today, just as we were heading home. Yahoo weather is predicting rain/snow tomorrow so we're doing a museum day and going to the opera to see "Madame Butterfly". We're getting quite cul-tuahed on this trip....
We took a bus tour of Karlstejn castle today, about an hour outside of Prague. It was built by Charles IV, "the most important king of Czech Republic." It was huge, and built into the stone of the hill. What I'm starting to learn that castles are big, they're freezing cold and they're kind of damp and dank. But I LOVED our tourguide. He was a younger guy, very knowledgable and took crap from anybody. When he was talking, NOBODY else was talking. And he had a look that would knock you down and a "Ssshhhhh" to follow. He was awesome. I've noticed tourists are kind of loud and pushy and he kept everyone in line.
Since James posted about the bedding, I feel I need to counter. The duvet is folded in thirds UNDER the top cover. So yes, I have commented/complained because every night I have to remake my bed so I can get into it to sleep. This makes absolutely no sense to me...I'm on vacation so I shouldn't have to make the bed! The only explanation I can get out of James is "it's just how it's done here" so until I get a better explanation, I'm going to comment on it every single night. Be prepared James, be prepared...
We've had great weather since we got here but it started to rain today, just as we were heading home. Yahoo weather is predicting rain/snow tomorrow so we're doing a museum day and going to the opera to see "Madame Butterfly". We're getting quite cul-tuahed on this trip....
And I shall call this land, Meat Land...
I'm not going to lie to you folks. I've eaten meat at almost every meal since I got here (yes also breakfast). If you like meat and if you like fried food (pan or deepfried) you will LOVE the food here. It's meaty, fried, and cheap! Our most expensive meal to date was $20.00 including lunch, two beers, two coffees and desert.
Meat meat meat meat. Last night for dinner I had a pork loin stuffed with Gorgonzola and bacon. I'm lovin' it and I don't mean McDonalds!
I think it's going to pastaramatime when we get to Rome. Just so I stop sweating pork seasonings... Hmmm poooorrrk.
Oh, there seem to be two types of Czechs. Those who are incredibly nice and helpful and those who think I am a piece of shit that speaks. Twice today I was Mr Lucky Guy and managed to choose two of the (thankfully very rare) people who think I'm Mr Poopy Guy. But, at least I got a watch (left mine at home) and we had a nice trip to see Charles the IV's summer home. I'll leave that to Angela to blog. But here are two pictures.
Oops, sorry. One quick note on the picture below. This is picture number 2 of the same subject (that subject being us). Angela made us take a second picture because in the first one (and I quote) "I'm not cute."....
And my post just keeps going. So, um, yeah. Angela has an "issue" with our beds. We have 1 pillow, 1 duvet, and 1 bed cover/blanket. The duvet is folded in a way that she finds offensive (no really, I'm not kidding). Her rational is that it takes work to go to bed (having to pull back the cover, arrange the duvet, put it back) and therefor they should not fold it that way. She has ... what's the word ... mentioned? no, discussed? no, complained? Yes. COMPLAINED about it every night we've been here...
Meat meat meat meat. Last night for dinner I had a pork loin stuffed with Gorgonzola and bacon. I'm lovin' it and I don't mean McDonalds!
I think it's going to pastaramatime when we get to Rome. Just so I stop sweating pork seasonings... Hmmm poooorrrk.
Oh, there seem to be two types of Czechs. Those who are incredibly nice and helpful and those who think I am a piece of shit that speaks. Twice today I was Mr Lucky Guy and managed to choose two of the (thankfully very rare) people who think I'm Mr Poopy Guy. But, at least I got a watch (left mine at home) and we had a nice trip to see Charles the IV's summer home. I'll leave that to Angela to blog. But here are two pictures.
Oops, sorry. One quick note on the picture below. This is picture number 2 of the same subject (that subject being us). Angela made us take a second picture because in the first one (and I quote) "I'm not cute."....
And my post just keeps going. So, um, yeah. Angela has an "issue" with our beds. We have 1 pillow, 1 duvet, and 1 bed cover/blanket. The duvet is folded in a way that she finds offensive (no really, I'm not kidding). Her rational is that it takes work to go to bed (having to pull back the cover, arrange the duvet, put it back) and therefor they should not fold it that way. She has ... what's the word ... mentioned? no, discussed? no, complained? Yes. COMPLAINED about it every night we've been here...
Monday, April 2, 2007
Random thoughts
Oh, I just remembered at dinner a couple things I forgot earlier. First thing is totally cheesy but James and I saw that actor who plays the bad FBI agent on "Prison Break" at the Prague Castle today...he climbed all the way up to the top of the tower too! Shorter than I would have thought. Of course, James and I played it cool and neither of us approached him...even though we both knew who he was!
And I'm sure my mom will also appreciate that the little mom and pop shop near our hotel sells kimchi noodles in their store...that Korean influence reaches even the Czech Republic! People appreciate good food everywhere... ;^)
And I'm sure my mom will also appreciate that the little mom and pop shop near our hotel sells kimchi noodles in their store...that Korean influence reaches even the Czech Republic! People appreciate good food everywhere... ;^)
Day 3...Angela's take on things
Well, once again, James pretty much summed it up. We had another great day with a bit less walking, which my back appreciated greatly. The Prague Castle was probably more beautiful than any of our photos will capture, but we sure took enough! I started focusing more on my b&w, since James is taking so many color, and I trust his eye. My camera is still working, so everyone keep their fingers crossed for me...
I just want to add that 297 steps is a LOT more than you think it's going to be, especially up a narrow, dark, stone spiral staircase. I made sure James knew his CPR technique and kept on. It was totally worth it once you got to the top, and some of the prettiest views of the city so far.
I find it really strange that everyone automatically speaks English first, especially in the touristy areas. When we went to the classical concert last night, the introduction was totally in English, not Czech. We read that the average Czech makes $1000/month with half going to rent. And as James pointed out, they probably can't afford to travel on that salary. I still find it a bit sad that I'm in a foreign country that's not England, and I don't even have to try to speak the language. Don't get me wrong, it makes our lives much easier...but we have tried to learn a few words and phrases. Of course, the only way we can remember "thank you" is that it sounds like "dacqueri" with an accent. It works.
I also want to give a shout out to James for rocking the directions so far (except for our one time getting lost yesterday...) I would be totally lost trying to find my way through these winding streets!
We're planning to go out of the city tomorrow and see Karlsjen (?) Castle. I'm sure we'll have loads more to report then...
I just want to add that 297 steps is a LOT more than you think it's going to be, especially up a narrow, dark, stone spiral staircase. I made sure James knew his CPR technique and kept on. It was totally worth it once you got to the top, and some of the prettiest views of the city so far.
I find it really strange that everyone automatically speaks English first, especially in the touristy areas. When we went to the classical concert last night, the introduction was totally in English, not Czech. We read that the average Czech makes $1000/month with half going to rent. And as James pointed out, they probably can't afford to travel on that salary. I still find it a bit sad that I'm in a foreign country that's not England, and I don't even have to try to speak the language. Don't get me wrong, it makes our lives much easier...but we have tried to learn a few words and phrases. Of course, the only way we can remember "thank you" is that it sounds like "dacqueri" with an accent. It works.
I also want to give a shout out to James for rocking the directions so far (except for our one time getting lost yesterday...) I would be totally lost trying to find my way through these winding streets!
We're planning to go out of the city tomorrow and see Karlsjen (?) Castle. I'm sure we'll have loads more to report then...
Prague Castle (day 3)
Yet another day has (almost) come to a close! Cameras are working and body parts are not in too much pain.
Today we went to the Prozski Hrad. That's Prague Castle for those of you who do not speak Czech. It's amazing. It's huge. We gave up after seeing about 3/4ths of it in 5 hours. Every king who lived there added stuff. The topper of the tour for us was the Cathedral. That's the first picture you see there. It's gorgeous with loads of vibrant stained glass windows.
The cathedral also has a tower you can go up into. The pictures of the city and of Angela and I are from the top of that tower. 297 steps to the top. No joking. 297 steps. The view was phenomenal and worth it. But still. 297 steps.
After our trip to the castle we had a late lunch of chicken and potato balls. No really, little deepfried balls of what we were told are potato. I'm pretty sure it was potato the same way pringles are potato chips (that's Angela's description and I concur).We then went to visit Angela's friend (the ass-slapper) at the shop where I got a Mucha box yesterday. Sadly our friend was not there.
What did I learn today: Italian's LOVE wrap-around sunglasses and puffy jackets. Also, it seems that everyone in Italy has come to Prague. At least every teenagers.
By the way, if you'd like to see more photos you can go to my smugmug account at:
http://boyinshortpants.smugmug.com and see others that I'm posting.
-james
Sunday, April 1, 2007
She said it!
It was a great day! Long, but great. We took loads of pictures (and narrowly avoided the great broken camera fiasco of Prague). I got us lost walking back to the metro to get to our hotel so we could get money and rush back to the Spanish synagogue for the great classical music performance we saw (we are so cultured). It's very kind of Angela not to mention that.
The boat tour we took was a load of fun (and we got free beer!). We also learned more about the city and what we've been taking pictures of. Turns out the statue we both took pictures of on the Charles Bridge is of some Saint who was killed for knowing a secret the king wanted, but would not tell him. So, if you touch the statue you get good luck and are guaranteed to come back to Prague. We touched it (see posted photos).
Today I learned: There are nice prague shopkeepers. However, they will smack the bums of their coworkers (both women) and I will almost get slapped in return. If Angela get's salty, feed her. It makes her happier. Some men in prague are rather emphatic when throwing away their banana peels. It must be done with vigor! Czech dumplings are good, but their potato cakes are WAY better. Always remember to pee before leaving the restaurant after having a liter of beer with dinner. It makes life far more comfortable.
Prague...take 2
We are finally back to our hotel after literally walking around the city since 9:30 this morning...it's now nearly 11:00 pm. This may be brief cuz my dogs are barking and a twin bed never looked so good!
First off, I had a bit of a scare with the camera today. It was acting a bit off yesterday but today none of the settings would work. The bag it was in got dropped in Paris, but I don't know for sure if that's what caused the problem. And the focusing seemed off as well. I decided to blow through a roll of color film quickly and have it developed, to make sure it was still working...otherwise I was at least mentally prepared to buy a new one. It does still work, but it's acting a bit tempermental, especially with night shots. So I still have my camera, but I can't do all the things I would normally want to. I'll just have to make do with what still works until it dies...hopefully not till we're back to SF!
Other than that, we had a great day roaming the city. We went to a classical performance in the spanish synogague tonight which was beautiful...both the music and the building itself. Went on a boat tour down the river...gotta love the free beer included in the price, and did a bit of shopping. Technical difficulties aside, it was a great day and looking forward to another tomorrow. Planning to check out Prague Castle tomorrow, we hear it's an all day affair. James' turn next and I'm off to bed!
First off, I had a bit of a scare with the camera today. It was acting a bit off yesterday but today none of the settings would work. The bag it was in got dropped in Paris, but I don't know for sure if that's what caused the problem. And the focusing seemed off as well. I decided to blow through a roll of color film quickly and have it developed, to make sure it was still working...otherwise I was at least mentally prepared to buy a new one. It does still work, but it's acting a bit tempermental, especially with night shots. So I still have my camera, but I can't do all the things I would normally want to. I'll just have to make do with what still works until it dies...hopefully not till we're back to SF!
Other than that, we had a great day roaming the city. We went to a classical performance in the spanish synogague tonight which was beautiful...both the music and the building itself. Went on a boat tour down the river...gotta love the free beer included in the price, and did a bit of shopping. Technical difficulties aside, it was a great day and looking forward to another tomorrow. Planning to check out Prague Castle tomorrow, we hear it's an all day affair. James' turn next and I'm off to bed!
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